Postcards from the Beach: Summers in Uruguay

Sunset at Punta Ballena

Out East

For New Yorkers, hearing the phrase "heading out east" typically means a weekend along the privileged enclaves of —hampton on the South Fork of Long Island. Similarly, "out east" in Montevideo implies a leisurely two weeks, or month, in any one of the dozens of beach hamlets between Montevideo and Punta del Este. Further afield, to the north and east, past Punta del Este, are the enclaves of Jose Ignacio and La Pedrera, exclusive getaways in their own right.

Starting around Christmas, "known as 'Family Week' in Uruguay", this stretch of coast all the way to Brazil, transforms into a vibrant paradise, attracting locals and tourists alike from around the world with stunning beaches and a laid back "mate-and-chill" culture.

The Southern Atlantic Ocean along Uruguay's coastline boasts a variety of landscapes. As the temperatures rise, the coastal towns come alive with a mix of traditional Uruguayan culture and modern influences. They offer an array of culinary delights, music festivals, beach parties, and art exhibitions.

Whether one seeks relaxation on pristine sands or an adventure in nature, the summer season along Uruguay's coast promises unforgettable experiences in a picturesque setting.

'Tis the Season

If you happen to find yourself in Montevideo in January, good luck finding a place to eat other than the supermarket. From Christmas until the start of carnival in late January, the city empties out, with many decamping to the coast for the long summer holidays. The coast is filled to the brim with both Uruguayans and international tourists (from jet-setters to low-key eco-travelers) until school starts in early March.

Crowds are at their peak and it feels as though the entire country is always a summer paradise. Visitors from Europe and Argentina frequent Punta del Este and the neighboring towns, while locals tend to favor the towns near Piriápolis, Portezuelo, and La Paloma. As always with Uruguay, don't expect things to be cheap. A drink in Punta del Este will easily be upwards of $15 USD and a beer costs around $7-9 USD.

Instead, drink wine. Uruguay has many delicious local wines that are only found in the country. While tannat is most favored traditionally, a very full-bodied red wine, there are a number of great white and rosé wines that will impress an oenophile. Instead of ordering a round of cocktails, get a bottle or two of wine. It will be less expensive and, most likely, more enjoyable.

Local tip: Bring sunscreen and moisturizers with you, or be prepared for price shock at the pharmacy.

Places to Go

Rocha

The department of Rocha lies to the east and north of Jose Ignacio, stretching all the way to the Brazilian border. It is the most favored part of the coast for many Uruguayans due to its remoteness and tranquil beauty. Among the dirt roads and pine trees are nestled a mixture of homes, from simple bungalows to modern concrete mansions, all miles from the closest town.

Top places to visit:

Cabo Polonio - this rugged yet beautiful beach hamlet is accessible only via 4x4 from a base camp, or by foot. It is not connected to the local power grid or water, so local residents are creative in keeping their village functioning.
Santa Teresa - a former colonial fortress that is now an expansive nature park and campground operated by the army. Very popular with families and teenagers with campgrounds, cabins, and bungalows next to the ocean.
La Pedrera - once the party town of the area, the city shut down the bars and reinvented the village center to be focused on art, food, and the beach. You'll find a quaint walkable city with cafes and two beaches with rentable hammocks and umbrellas.

Sunset beach at La Pedrera

Maldonado

Both a department and a city, it is best known for its most famous city, Punta del Este. With great art museums, stunning beaches, and a jet-set atmosphere, the areas surrounding Punta del Este and Maldonado are among the most exciting places to be in the summer. The nights are long and it is hard to be bored if you're staying anywhere here.

Top towns to visit:

La Barra - running through this former fishing village is the congested two-lane highway connecting all the beach towns east of Punta del Este. However, with great home goods stores and art galleries during the day, along with hip bars and clubs at night, La Barra is heavy on charm.
Punta Ballena - the homes along this stretch of coast are discreetly beautiful, nestled just far enough away from the chaos of the other Punta. Not to mention they command a stunning view of the sunset every single night. Famous Casa Pueblo is a must-see for first time visitors.
Piriápolis - a great city that wasn't. This master-planned town is a shadow of what might have been. Great architectural wonders, a sprawling rambla, and odd curiosities can be found in this often overlooked enclave.

Sunset in Portezuelo

Come As You Are

Unless you plan on spending an evening out in Punta del Este, you can leave the fancy clothes at home. Summers in Uruguay are place to enjoy and relax, not see and be seen (though that does exist for those who seek it). There's a town vibe for everyone, from hiking and camping, to drinking a rum and coke in a hammock, Uruguay offers a bit everything. If you're interested in finding out what town would be a good fit for you and your vibe, feel free to send us a message!

The Uru-Gays